Val di Fiemme Must Read Resort Guide

Nested in the border of the division of Trentino and Sudtirol, with terrain in both provinces, Val di Fiemme is a very special place. This incredible natural landscape heritage of the Lagorai Chain, Pale di San Martino and Latemar Group inhabited by 60 million trees that originate from a millennial culture, amidst two national parks houses a large ski carousel of 5 ski areas, with 110 km of downhill slopes, 150 km of cross country skiing tracks, snow parks, 4 sledding runs, 4 ski-kindergarten and a 1 km of parabolic downhill.

The pistes in Val di Fiemme are very well groomed and long. Photo courtesy: Val di Fiemme.
The pistes in Val di Fiemme are very well groomed and long. Photo courtesy: Val di Fiemme.

The views in Val di Fiemme are spectacular, it is a very long open valley, which does not feel enclosed at all, with lovely views wherever you see.

People can stay in the towns of Cavalese, Predazzo, Tesero, Ziano and Varena. Cavalese at the base of the ski resort of Alpe Cermis. There is also some lodging at the base of the Ski Center Latermar in Pampeago and in the base of Obereggen (this last base area of same the Ski Center Latemar is in the province of Sudtirol, as opposed of the rest of Val di Fiemme that is located in Trentino).

Shopping:

Cavalese is a lovely town that has many shops to entertain the most avid shopper. There is a pedestrianized street with lovely boutiques, local produce and ski shops to be entertained. This is the home of La Sportiva technical apparel, which is produced in Ziano di Fiemme. Downtown Cavalese there is a very well equipped shop of La Sportiva.

Terrace of the Pizza restaurant of Romantik Hotel Excelsior- Cavalese- Photo by The-Ski-Guru.
Terrace of the Pizza restaurant of Romantik Hotel Excelsior- Cavalese- Photo by The-Ski-Guru.

Restaurants:

The food in Trentino-Alto Adige (the area formed by Trentino and Südtirol) is amazing- from very refined Michelin-stars restaurants (as the one Michelin star El Molin, at the Romantic Hotel Excelsior), to great food trattorias.

Lots of local cafeterias and bars abound in the different towns. Cavalese would be my preferred choice where to stay, as it is pretty central and is a lovely historic town with lots of charme.

Masso dello Speck- Photo by: The-Ski-Guru
Masso dello Speck- Photo by: The-Ski-Guru

However, if you stay at the base of Pampeago, one of the bases of the Ski Center Latemar, the Hotel Lo Scoiattolo has a very nice restaurant, and a lovely out-house that serves pizza till late and where people hang out for après-ski.

Where to eat in Val di Fiemme:

As said before, food in Trentino and Sudtirol is amazing, and Val di Fiemme offers lots of great food.

Fine Dining:

  • El Molin: Very elegant restaurant located in an antique mill with modern cuisine that is rooted in the mountains, that tastes of wood, wild herbs, moss and lichens. (Michelin Guide) http://www.alessandrogilmozzi.it/EN/ – this is in the Romantik Hotel Excelsior, downtown Cavalese.
  • Costa Salici: Nice place with modern cuisine (similar to El Molin); it proposes typical dishes using local products with a twist. http://www.costasalici.com/cucina
  • Hotel Ristorante La Stua : The restaurant Sissi Stube à la carte, with its typical mountain furnishings, proposes dishes of tradition and innovation, placing special attention in every detail and always using fresh and seasonal products. http://www.hotellastua.com/en/1/2875/restaurant.htm. This is the restaurant of Hotel La Stua, in downtown Cavalese.
The internal heating system at Hotel La Stua - all the properties have one of them. Photo by The-Ski-Guru.
The internal heating system at Hotel La Stua – all the properties have one of them. Photo by The-Ski-Guru.

Fine/Mid Range

Mid Range

Downtown Cavalese, Tower of San Sebastiano- Photo by The-Ski-Guru
Downtown Cavalese, Tower of San Sebastiano- Photo by The-Ski-Guru
Hotel Romantik Excelsior Cavalese. Photo by The-Ski-Guru
Hotel Romantik Excelsior Cavalese. Photo by The-Ski-Guru

Where to go for Aperitivo: Wine Bar El Molin (Cavalese) http://www.alessandrogilmozzi.it/enoteca-bistrot-wine-bar-trentino.php, Chicchetteria Roma (Cavalese), Aspen Bar (Cavalese), Cheers (Cavalese),
Il Ghiottone (Cavalese) http://laltroghiottone.com/language/en/home-page-en-2/

Aperitivo time - Photo by The-Ski-Guru
Aperitivo time – Photo by The-Ski-Guru

 

Rifugio Oberholz - Obereggen - Ski Center Latemar - Photo by The-Ski-Guru
Rifugio Oberholz – Obereggen – Ski Center Latemar – Photo by The-Ski-Guru

 

  • Where to Après Ski
  • La Stala del Nono (Pampeago) at Hotel Scoiattolo in the base area of Pampeago;
    El Zirmo
    (Bellamonte)

Next page – The Ski Areas

You can also read of the Valley next door – Val di Fassa here.

Val di Fiemme – The Ski Areas:

Val di Fiemme has a large carousel with 5 ski areas, which combined have 110 km of downhill slopes, 150 km of cross-country skiing prepared tracks, several snow parks, 4 ski kindergartens and ski schools in each mountain, and 1 mile of parabolic downhill.

This is a family friendly resort with lots of initiatives to entertain the small people in the families.

Val di Fiemme pistes are family friendly. Photo by Val di Fiemme.
Val di Fiemme pistes are family friendly. Photo by Val di Fiemme.

At the Latemar Ski Center, the main area of the carousel, with 49 km of pistes that connects the areas of Pampeago, Predazzo and Obereggen, the culinary tradition meets the design for a delightful gourmet break at Rifuguio Passo Feudo, with a panoramic room where now there is a top quality table service with a delicious menu with typical dishes of the area.

The Rifugio Oberholz is accessible with the new Lanem telemix (a chondola –, which combines chairs and cabins on the same rope). The Rifugio Oberholz’ s design has three modern ski verandas that overlook down the ski slpopes towards South Tyrol, with local typical dishes of the area.

Photo © Alice Russolo /Val di Fiemme
Photo © Alice Russolo /Val di Fiemme

In the Latemar ski Center the art gets in touch with nature, at the RespirArt park, where every season there are new entries of art sculptures. The most popular is one big frame sculpture where people stop for a ‘selfie’ with the striking Latemar Mountain group in the background.

At the Bellamonte-Alpe Lusia ski area, the slopes touch the boundaries of the Paneveggio-Pale San Martino Natural Park and it is quick to get to 1,967 m altitude thanks to the modern and silent 3.0 cable car. With a capacity of 10 seats per cabin, it can also carry sledges. Its second stop is at the entrance of the Fraina track, of 2 km of length.

Every descent in the Passo Rolle area offers a wonderful view of the Dolomites, which reminds you why Val di Fiemme is home of UNESCO World Heritage sites.

In Alpe Cermis you can ski at night, every Wednesday and Fridays from 7.30 to 10.30 PM, along the Olimpia III run.
http://www.visitfiemme.it/en/active-relax/snow/night-skiing

And at the arrival station of the Alpe Cermis cable car, the new Restaurant Baita Granda and the lounge bar La Baita Tonda have an Alpine design with large windows and great views of the surroundings.

Passo Lavaze- photo by The-Ski-Guru
Passo Lavaze- photo by The-Ski-Guru

Passo Lavazè-Oclini is a mecca for cross country, with lots of kilometres of technical and challenging trails, as well as some easier for beginners. http://www.visitfiemme.it/en/active-relax/snow/cross-country-skiing

The Fiemme-E-Motion Winter card is a passport offered to all those staying in a participating hotel in Val di Fiemme, giving you discounts, free ski bus to take you to the different ski areas within the carousel, free entrance to museums and castles, also walks, guided tours, and recreational activities and tastings.

Families might choose to stay in one mountain of the carousel, as their kids might be in ski school. But families with older kids not taking ski lessons, or just group of friends or couples, might want to purchase a combined ski pass Val di Fiemme/Obereggen + Dolomiti Superski (ex. 5+1 see the prices on the website http://www.visitfiemme.it/en/active-relax/snow/skipasses) and then ski one day in Sella Ronda area using the service of Ski Chauffeur http://www.visitfiemme.it/en/more-info/useful-info/mobility, otherwise if you prefer to be accompanied by a ski guide it can be organised on request paying an extra rate.

Other useful information:

A lift up Ski Center Latemar in the middle of the clouds - Photo by The-Ski-Guru
A lift up Ski Center Latemar in the middle of the clouds – Photo by The-Ski-Guru

Each mountain has lockers where you can leave your skis and boots so you do not have to carry them around.

Lifts open every day at 8.30 am and close at 4.30 pm 

For those wanting to see the sun coming out, there is an early breakfast deal on top of the mountain, where you can get up before the sun goes up, have a hot breakfast on top of the mountain, and then enjoy the first tracks with empty slopes: http://www.visitfiemme.it/en/italian-style-and-events/events/events/Trentino%20Ski%20Sunrise_de97478

Ski Center Latemar - Photo by The-Ski-Guru
Ski Center Latemar – Photo by The-Ski-Guru

There is a free bus/skibus with your Fiemme Card – more info here: http://www.visitfiemme.it/en/active-relax/snow/skibus-map

For those wanting to go to the slopes but have a private service, you can get a private bus to the resort/ ski chauffer for € 5,00 per person per way, thus to reach Pampeago for example it would be € 20,00 for a family of four: http://www.visitfiemme.it/en/active-relax/snow/ski-chauffeur

Your skipass gives you a free entry to the community pools in Cavalese and Predazzo (except on Tuesdays and Saturdays)

http://www.visitfiemme.it/en/family-paradise/sport/swimming-pools

Sledging at Val di Fiemme- Photo by Val di Fiemme
Sledging at Val di Fiemme- Photo by Val di Fiemme

Off-snow activities:

  • Program of organised and guided activities

http://www.visitfiemme.it/en/active-relax/snow/fiemmemotion-winter-card/weekly-program

  • Ice Skating:

http://www.visitfiemme.it/en/active-relax/other-sports/ice-skating

http://www.visitfiemme.it/en/family-paradise/fun/sledge-and-tubby-slopes

In each resort there is a kindergarten that offers babysitting services:

http://www.visitfiemme.it/en/family-paradise/fun/ski-kindergarten

Another option is to ask your hotel for a babysitter service.

Calendar of Events

Marcialonga- classic meeting of the cross country community, a great event to attend in Val di Fiemme. Photo by Val di Fiemme.
Marcialonga- classic meeting of the cross country community, a great event to attend in Val di Fiemme. Photo by Val di Fiemme.
Mercatino di Natale in Cavalese- Photo by The-Ski-Guru
Mercatino di Natale in Cavalese- Photo by The-Ski-Guru

Next – Where to Stay

You can read also the Must-Read Guide to Courmayeur here.

Where to Stay – Val di Fiemme

Hotel La Stua 4* (Cavalese)

The Hotel la Stua lies in the very centre of Cavalese at the corner with the Piazza dei Francescani, right at the beginning of the village. Despite it’s centrality, the hotel is quiet and peaceful, a calm corner with a well equipped garden where you can enjoy the view on the tower of San Sebastiano and the Lagorai Group while being enlighted by candles made of pure wax. Enjoy delicate meat and venison until late… with superfine local Grappas.

Ask for the rooms with views to the Piazza and avoid the ones with rooms to the side of the building, so you have more light!

The restaurant is very nice, breakfast is very good, and the attention is great. There is a small spa downstairs with a sauna, steam bath, hot tub and a small area for relaxing with some lounge chairs. You can reserve a massage in advance as well. http://www.hotellastua.com/en/1/2853/hotel-la-stua.htm

Restaurant Hotel La Stua - Photo by The-Ski-Guru
Restaurant Hotel La Stua – Photo by The-Ski-Guru

Hotel La Roccia 4* (Cavalese) Big hotel with lots of services and a big spa, with nice views over the valley of Val di Fiemme – Near downtown, (going through the back door of the hotel), just across the municipal gym and pool. Big well appointed rooms. http://www.hotellaroccia.it/lang/EN/homepage

Hotel Garni Laurino 4 Sup (Cavalese) – Lovely small hotel with lots of charm, each room is different; the attention to detail is great. Located in downtown Cavalese, but on a quiet road. Serves great breakfasts and have a lovely living room and bar area. http://www.hotelgarnilaurino.it/EN/

Hotel Garni Laurino - Photo by The-Ski-Guru
Hotel Garni Laurino – Photo by The-Ski-Guru

Hotel Orso Grigio 4* (Cavalese) Excellent location in downtown Cavalese, the hotel has been recently refurbished; all rooms are modern and well appointed. It has a spa in the lower ground floor and a good restaurant. https://www.hotelorsogrigio.it/

Romantic Hotel Excelsior 4* (Cavalese) A former 3 stars that has been refurbished and houses the Michelin star restaurant El Molin. Very well located in a lovely old grand building (Palace Riccabona) http://www.excelsiorcavalese.com/EN/ 

Hotel Castelir 4 Sup (Panchià) – lovely small hotel with very nice suites, a bit tucked away of it all, serves breakfast and offers dinner in their sister 3* hotel across the street. Lovely spa. http://www.castelir.it/en-us/p/47/home

View from one of the suites' terraces at Hotel Castelir. Photo by The-Ski-Guru
View from one of the suites’ terraces at Hotel Castelir. Photo by The-Ski-Guru

Hotel Nele – 3*Sup (Ziano di Fiemme) A 3* superior hotel, all refurbished with nice rooms and nice common areas. It has a residence next door with apartments with kitchenette, very nice family owner, well located for the Marcialonga (the cross country race that takes place in January every year). The father of the family was one of the organisers of this iconic race. The hotel has lots of old pictures showcasing the race in its corridors- http://www.hotelnele.com/en/

Hotel Alpino – 3* (Varena) – Family hotel in the town of Varena – relatively nearby the ski center Latemar and also the cross country area of Lavazé Pass (the extended family is owner of Lo Scoiattolo, at the base of Pampeago (Ski Center Latemar – more below)- https://www.hotelalpinovarena.it/en – 3 km from Cavalese- the hotel has some new rooms that are tastefully decorated.

Hotel Veronza 3* (Carano) – rooms and apartments with a big spa including an indoor pool. Originally a time-share, it is located in the small town of Carano, good to ski either in Alpe Cermis as is near Cavalese or Centro Sci Latemar. Great family hotel with lots of activities and areas dedicated to the little ones. http://www.hotelveronza.it/inverno/

Lo Scoiattolo 4* (Tesero) – One of the only hotels in the base of Pampeago – Ski Center Latemar – and the only 4*, just across the parking lot from the start and the end of the pistes. Pretty much ski in (not ski out, as you have to walk across the parking lot to get to the chairlifts of the base area). Nice rooms, family rooms, great spa with indoor pool and outside hot tub; good bar for après-ski or late pizza dinner bar. Very good option if you came to Val di Fiemme to ski every day. Ski Center Latemar is the biggest of the ski areas of Val di Fiemme. http://www.scoiattolo.it/en/

Reception Hotel Nele- Photo by The-Ski-Guru
Reception Hotel Nele- Photo by The-Ski-Guru

Hotel Torretta 3* (Bellamonte) – traditional family hotel with classic décor managed by a third generation family owners. You can see the mother of the actual General Manager, still overseeing what is going on. The hotel is in a great location for its views; you can see the Lagorai Chain and the Pale de San Martino. Better placed to ski at Alpe Luisa, and good also for getting a transfer for getting to Val di Fassa and ski the Sella Ronda (a carousel that interconnects 1200 km of slopes, the largest ski carousel in the world). http://www.hoteltorrettabellamonte.it/

Agriturismo Pianrestel (Cavalese) A small house that works as a farm and offers bed and breakfast in an agriturismo setting. 1 km from Cavalese and 800 meters from the lift to Alpe Cermis- It has well appointed rooms, with a nice restaurant and spa. http://www.agriturpianrestel.com/

 

Agriturismo Pianrestel- Photo by The-Ski-Guru
Agriturismo Pianrestel- Photo by The-Ski-Guru

 

Transfer company from airports”

Featured Image: Coming from the winding roads of Val di Fiemme towards the Brennero route direction to Trento – Photo by The-Ski-Guru.

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You can check also the Must-Read Guide to Courmayeur.

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