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Why am I making a guide of Morgex? Because this place is such a well-kept secret. Morgex is the place where all savvy Milanese, Torinese and Genovese buy their second home. It is the spot where I have my second home and where we go year-round, around six times a year! A great spot for all your year-round outdoor adventures!
In winter, is a strategic place where to go and ski in different resorts. You have Courmayeur in 10’, La Thuile in 20’ and the parking lot of Pila in Aosta in 30’. If you want, you can stretch it to Cervinia in 1h14’. Amazing cross country is just above in Arpy and many more further afield… like Val Ferret, Rhêmes-Notre-Dame and Cogne.
In summer, you have amazing hiking trails from Morgex to all over – for all kinds of fitness; also mountain biking, road biking, rafting in the Dora Baltea river, amongst many other things!
How to get to Morgex.
By Car:
Morgex is located 31 km from Aosta, and 8 km from Courmayeur and the Mont Blanc Tunnel.
From Piemonte: take the motorway (autostrada) Torino-Aosta (direzione Aosta). Pass the Aosta East and Aosta Ovest exit and 20 minutes later is the exit to Morgex.
From France: cross the Mont Blanc Tunnel, and if coming in summer you can cross the Colle del Piccolo San Bernardo from La Rosière.
From Switzerland: Cross the Gran San Bernardo Tunnel and if coming in summer you can also cross the Gran San Bernardo Pass.
By Bus:
From Aosta, Torino and Milano there are daily transfers from/to Morgex.
The pullman from Milano departs Lampugnano, easily recognised from the Central train station with the metropolitan M2 (change in Cadorna) and M3 (stop Lampugnano)
For more information click here: https://aosta.arriva.it/
By Train:
From Torino: Take the train Torino- Aosta (change at Ivrea) ** Note that the rail Ivrea-Aosta is being electrified, and there are bus replacements at the Ivrea and Aosta train stations. This will last three years
From Milano: go towards Chivaso, and from there proceed direction to Aosta (change at Ivrea) with the Torino-Aosta train. (see note above)- For more information go to: https://www.trenitalia.it
From the Aosta rail station, cross the street and you will find the Aosta bus station, where you can take the bus (or pullman) towards Morgex (direction Courmayeur). For more information go to https://aosta.arriva.it/area/alta-valle/
Introduction
Morgex is located at 900 meters over sea level on the Valdigne valley. This is the Valley of the Monte Bianco, at the west of the Valle d’Aosta and bordering France and Switzerland. The Valdigne means a “forest of pines” and presents a very interesting landscape as a result of the millennial action of the glaciers. The Valdigne includes the villages of Courmayeur, Pré-Saint-Didier, La Thuille, Morgex and La Salle.
History of Morgex
The first inhabitants of Valdigne were the Salassi, a population of Celtic origin formed north of the Alps around the sixth century BC, who then had to succumb to Roman rule. From the eleventh century, under the dominion of the Counts of Savoy, Morgex spent a long period of stability and freedom, being also the seat of the Mistralia della Valdigne, the smallest territorial entity of the county of Savoy, which extended up to the Little St. Bernard pass.
Morgex was an important economic and administrative centre, as well as being an obligatory stop for the Count when he was on his way to Aosta. Every seven years, in fact, the Dukes of Savoy went to Aosta to hold the General Audiences and the Court of Justice, crossing the Colle del Piccolo San Bernardo. The passage of the dukes represented a prestigious occasion for the whole Valdigne, especially for Morgex where the sovereign and his royal commissioners established a small garrison at the Castle de l’Archet, today Tour de l’Archet. Traces of that era are still clearly visible, such as the Bozel Stronghold at Villair and the Pascal Castle at La Ruine, as well as the splendid Tour de l’Archet in the center of the capital, now home to the Sapegno Foundation.
During World War II, Morgex did not suffer as much damage as elsewhere. As a testimony to that sad historical moment, a monument was built in memory of those who never returned from the front, which can still be seen today next to the church.
During the second half of the 1920s, the antracifeous deposit of La Thuile-Morgex started to be exploited industrially. Anthracite had been extracted for centuries from La Thuile coal basin, as in the entire Alpine range between Savoy and Valais, but in a manner limited to local needs, domestic heating and lime firing.
Before the purchase by the Miniera di Cogne in 1926, all the anthracite mines in the area were operating independently of one another. Already during the war the extraction activity has raised considerably.
In 1919 excavation work began in the Col Croce mine, the most developed and best equipped, divided into three levels 40 meters from each other, with eight cultivated benches. From here, before the opening of the railway tunnel towards Arpy. The ore was transported by cableway to Elevaz, where it was loaded onto trucks and transported downstream.
All the production from the La Thuile mines is still put on the market without undergoing any treatment, other than being reduced to dimensions of approximately 60 mm in diameter.
From a geological point of view, we have already seen that the La Thuile basin is part of a large anthraciferous belt that starts from the Maurienne, in Savoy, and extends into the Aosta Valley from La Thuile to the Gran S. Bernardo, to continue then to Switzerland. In addition to the La Thuile deposits, various smaller cultivations arise in other municipalities in the Valley, including Morgex, La Salle and Saint Rhémy.
However, the extraction is carried out by people without the necessary technical skills, worsening the low-quality reputation of the Aosta Valley coal already present due to its natural characteristics. However, all these mines were abandoned at the end of the 1910s, and only in La Thuile did the activity continue, according to a more rational and industrial exploitation, with the purchase of the concessions by Ansaldo-Cogne.
The purchase of the Morgex mines in 1927 transformed the Arpy basin into a very active construction site, with houses for workers and miners. In the valley, to facilitate the transport of anthracite, the railway line from Aosta to Pré-Saint-Didier was extended and inaugurated in 1928, after just two years of work. (1)
Arpy Mine
The Morgex factories in the post-war period saw the definitive closure of the La Thuile mines in 1966 and the opening, in 1964, of MorgexCarbo, an industrial plant aimed at processing electrodes for industrial use, which remained operational until the mid-eighties. After its closure, following numerous years of hopes and illusions, the Monte Bianco mineral water plant which is still in operation opens on the same site where Cogne first and then MorgexCarbo stood.
Notes:
- https://ostellodiarpy.com/le-miniere-di-arpy/
- I used the information of the Discover Morgex website to guide myself in this guide: https://www.discovermorgex.it/
- https://www.discovermorgex.it/morgex-cenni-storici-valle-d-aosta/
Wine Country:
Morgex is the home of the Blanc de Morgex et La Salle, coming from the Prie Blanc. It was made famous by parish priest Alexandre Bougeat, back in the 1960’s and early 1970s. These wines were considered the best of Italy. Being a wine of altitude, it allows the sparkling wine to have very small bubbles. The vineyards use the “Metodo Classico” the equivalent to the Champenoise Method in France.
There are many vinyards in Morgex and La Salle, and you can buy the produce from the local shops, as well from the different aziendas. The most well-known are Cave du Mont Blanc, that is a cooperative company where many of the local producers take their grape to produce the wine, followed by Ermes Pavese. Other wineries are the Azienda Vitivinicola Brunet Piero, Maison Vevey Albert, Crotta de la Meurdzïe di Vevey Marziano and Domaine Quinson.
Where to Stay
Il Cuore della Valdigne
This is my home that I rent out whenever we are not there. A two-bedroom/2 bathroom apartment that takes maximum 6, but ideally 4. Located in the centre of Morgex, in a recycled cow stable, with beautiful stone walls and lots of wood and mountain feeling. Garage Box just outside the property.
Book Il Cuore della Valdigne here.
Café Quinson Relais de Charme – a deluxe hostelry with an even better restaurant, located on the central ‘Piazza’ of Morgex, just across from the main church (Chiesa Santa Maria Assunta)
Book Café Quinson Relais de Charme here.
Les Montagnards– beautiful hostelry 3* superior located downtown Morgex. Rooms can have views of the Monte Bianco or the Grivola. It is a bed and breakfast, oozing cosiness through their wooden interiors.
Dada Boutique Hotel – small bed and breakfast in the hamlet of La Ruine, just one block away from the local park filled with pine trees, and a lovely bar: Café du Chalet.
Book Dada Boutique Hotel here.
Relais Mont Blanc (in La Salle) – a five stars hotel in the collina di La Salle. A full-service hotel with great restaurant, bar, and spa on premises.
Book your lodging in Morgex here.
Baita La Jolie Bergère– in La Collina di La Salle, in Planaval. A lovely wooden chalet beautifully decorated. If you want to be up in the mountains with the big outdoors near you, this is for you.
Book Baita La Jolie Bergère here.
VillAmour Boutique Hotel & Spa
Book VillAmour Boutique Hotel & Spa here.
Green Park Village
La Cascata Chambres d’Hôtes
Beautiful hostelry next to the Cascata del Lenteney. Beautiful bar with a terrace overlooking the Cascata. It has a wooden sauna outside by the cascata that looks fantastic.
Book La Cascata Chambres d’Hôtes here.
Where to Eat
For Coffee and Brioche
Pillier Central – love going there for cappuccino with my dog every morning, and sometimes a brioche (croissant). They have great biscuits (I tend to buy a little tray and take them home, and these don’t last one day as all my family munches them!)- There are also crêpes and waffles, plus sandwiches and a choice of meal every lunch. They also sell great ice-cream.
Sablé –by the Pharmacy. Another great place for cappuccino and biscuits, ice-cream and cakes!
Lo Dernier – next to the Posta Italiana, a great central café for meeting in the mornings. Always busy.
Café de l’Archet– another central café by the Tour de l’Archet and Le Polentière.
Petit Bar – just behind the Eni Station, on the old road to Prè-Saint-Didier. A small bar with very nice owners, great for a quick coffee or aperitivo.
For Ice-Cream
Pillier Central – lovely ice-cream, you can buy big pots to take to your house.
Sable- also great ice-cream, and you can buy big pots to take home.
For Aperitivo
Lo Dernier – our favourite, is our local, you see all locals every evening and the owners, Barbara and Silvano, are always super nice, and give you lovely food to accompany your aperitivo.
Pillier Central – lovely to have an aperitivo in their terrace in summer or inside in winter. Love specially the wooden cabin side of the café there.
Bar du Chalet – great spot in the park of La Ruine, one of the hamlets of Morgex.
Café de l’Archet – good drinks in a traditional bar recently refurbished, nice spot.
Bar Petit Bar – great little spot just behind the Eni, for a no fuss aperitivo experience.
Bikers Pub – just in the same building of the Pharmacy, on the side, going down. Has lots of tables outdoors, great for those sunnier summer afternoons.
Pub Mont Blanc – inside the Cave du Mont Blanc. They have a big bar and terrace where to take aperitivo. My boys like that they can play pool and table football while we hang out. Great burgers as well!
For Lunch/Dinner
Ristorante Café Quinson– upscale restaurant of chef Agostino Buillas- amazing experience for having a course of 4 or 6 dishes. Upscale, with lovely simple food, super yummy, but for a special occasion due to its price.
La Locanda – the local restaurant just across the church Santa Maria Assunta. Great pizzas and pasta and a small selection of other Valdostan dishes.
Ristorante Green Park – in the camping Green Park. This is our favourite now (even though my husband protests that is expensive- but we all dine steaks when we go!) – lovely ambiance, always full so make reservations. It has a back room with games for kids. Amazing steaks for not being in Argentina (where I am from!) Avoid be seated on the back room next to the games room as it can be noisy.
L’Ostaria – The newest place in town, about to open before this summer season (Summer 2024). Chef Oreste will make a selection per day for those visitors- rumour has it he is a great chef! And the wooden walls and restaurant decor is amazing, all done by Oreste. Great wine cave underneath. A spot to watch!
Il Polentiere – lovely family food- all based, you guessed it, o polenta! Open on weekends, sometimes open all days – check their opening times here.
Da Bepe – a traditional family local restaurant, it is like going to eat to someone’s house. If you are staying in the main room, you will have TV showing the trending soap opera while eating! There is also a room that is like a cantina (with no windows and concave roofs, very typical of the Italian cantinas!)
Pizzeria Ristorante Vecchio Forno – owned by the people of La Locanda. They serve pizza. This restaurant is only opened on high season, as they don’t have that many personnel to run both restaurants. It is a nice alternative when opened!
Trattoria Bar Lo Creichen – just by the roundabout of Morgex (the first one coming from Courmayeur)- a great no-fuss place where to have a meal at a good price!
La Jolie Bergère in Planaval -a lovely spot on the top of the Collina de La Salle. Check times availability and you should reserve to go. The place is lovely decorated, very cosily done in wood with local decorations. Valdostan menu, heavily dependent on Fontina cheese.
PuBurger – in the CampoSportivo (by the football fields)- this is a typical restaurant that my kids like, as they have good burger and chips! Great if your boys want to play football while waiting for the food!
Activities in Winter
Skiing:
In Courmayeur (10’ away), La Thuile/La Rosière (20’ away), and Pila (Aosta/ 30’ away). You can even stretch it to Cervinia (1h14’), and go to the smaller resorts of Crevacol, (on the way up to the Gran San Bernardo Tunnel north of Aosta).
Cross Country Skiing
In Arpy, just going up the mountain from Morgex, towards the Colle San Carlo. You stop at the hamlet of Arpy where there is an “ostello” where you can rent your cross country skis or snow shoes.
Groomed pistes for cross country skiers and others for snowshoes or winter walking. You can then get a hot chocolate (Italian style) at the ostello after your hard work!
There are other renown cross country tracks in Val Ferret (the valley parallel to the Monte Bianco massif, accessible from the end of Courmayeur/La Palud), and at Cogne, in the Grand Paradiso Park, as well as at Rhêmes Notre Dame, amongst other smaller pistes.
Snowshoeing:
In all cross country trails there are always paths for snowshoers, and when it snows, I like to go local with my snowshoes, like to Pautex – to the Pista Ciclabile (cycle path), that might be full of snow!
Ski, Snowboard, Cross Country skis, Snowshoes and Mountain Bike Rental Shop
Only Ski – next to Pillier Central café and Whatsalp store. They offer alpine ski, snowboard, snowshoes rentals. End of the season rentals sales.
Mountain Equipment and Cross-Country Equipment Sales & Rental
Sport du Pilier – the owners of Sport du Pilier have also the Pilier Central cafeteria/restaurant and the Rifugio Torino and Rifugio Monzino.
Activities in Summer
Mountain Bike, road bike, rafting, hiking. Lots of itineraries departing on foot from Morgex, or going a bit higher up with your car if you want to start from a higher altitude. Piscina alpina in Courmayeur (you ride the lift up to Plan Chécrouit and have a short walk from there). Open pool and closed pool in the Polideportivo in Aosta.
Activities year round
Visit the local church: Chiesa Santa Maria Assunta di Morgex.
Believed to be one of the oldest of the upper Aosta Valley. Some ancient remains of the 5th-6th century were discovered by archaeological digs that found an ancient Christian baptismal church from that area. The church of Morgex was also mentioned for the first time in the papal bull of Alexander III in 1176.
The medieval church was readjusted a lot. The restoration and extension went from 1687 to 1705 when Monsignor d’Arvillars consecrated the building.
There is a wooden crucifix in the central nave that dates from the end of the 14th century. And on the left hand side of the central nave there is a painting of the Last Supper that dates from 1559, and the amazing frescos of the fifteenth century chapel at the bottom of the left hand nave.
Helicopter rides from Courmayeur (next to Skyway Monte Bianco). You can book these rides to go heli-skiing or just to do some visits around the Monte Bianco and glaciers.
Ride Skyway Monte Bianco. Visit to Punta Helbronner via Skyway Monte Bianco, a rotair cablecar that takes you to a panoramic terrace where you can have 360 views of the Monte Bianco, the Monte Bianco massif and all the surrounding mountains. There is also a crystal exhibition, and at the first station, (the Pavillion) the highest tasting shop of the Cave du Mont Blanc sparkling – the Metodo Classico Extrabut Cuvée des Guides, an homage to the mountain and its guides. There is also a botanical garden (open in the summer) with 900 plant species from all over the world. You can visit the Snowshoe Camp, for an unforgettable walk in the snow, during winter.
Some Hiking spots!
Visit to Lago d’Arpy. Amazing in all seasons. I particularly like going in the autumn for the autumn colours. You drive up to the Colle San Carlo, and when you see the Genzianella Lodge/Restaurant, you park, and take the trail (sentiero 15) that is very easy (I’ve seen parents taking pushchairs through this Tourist Trail).
Difficulty: T – Tourist
Recommended period: from June to October
Departure: Colle San Carlo
Arrival: Arpy Lake (2,066 m)
Height difference: 100 m
One way duration: 40″
Located at 2,066 meters above sea level. and immersed in a splendid basin, Lake Arpy is fed by the emissary of Lake Pietra Rossa. Walking around the lake shore you can admire a spectacular view of the Grandes Jorasses, peaks that are part of the Mont Blanc chain, and of the Colle della Croce which overlooks the valley.
Other trekking trails not to miss:
If you go towards the Belvedere d’Arpy (going to the road behind the Genzianella), you can see all the Catena di Monte Bianco in its splendour. Some steps towards the right, and you will see an old cross, on top of what is Tête d’Arpy, to commemorate the two world wars. From here, you can see the mountains of the end of the valley, (including the Grivola in all its splendor). The Belvedere is located at 1.930 meters.
Lago di Pietra Rossa
At the end of the Arpy plain, after having skirted the lake of the same name, the path climbs up to the Pietra Rossa lake, located at 2,583 meters above sea level, an enchanting lake from which to admire a splendid panorama. From Pietra Rossa lake you can continue climbing up to Becca Pouegnenta (2,824 m) passing through the Col d’Ameran.
Difficulty: E – Hiking
Recommended period: from July to September
Departure: Arpy Lake (2,066 m)
Arrival: Red Stone Lake (2,583 m)
Difference in altitude: 500 m
One way duration: 1h30
Signpost: 15
Licony Lake
Lake Licony is one of the largest natural lakes in the Aosta Valley and is located at 2,554 m above sea level in the valley of the same name. Its waters, fed by the countless streams that descend from the Testa di Licony and the Aiguille de Chambave, make it very scenic thanks to its beautiful intense blue color. Once you reach the lake it is possible to continue towards Colle di Licony and the Luigi Pascal bivouac.
Difficulty: E – Hiking
Recommended period: from June to September
Departure: hamlet. Villair of Morgex
Arrival: Licony lake
Difference in altitude: 1,570 m
One way duration: 4h30
Signposts: 4
Bivouac Luigi Pascal
The Luigi Pascal bivouac is located at 2,920 meters above sea level. and can be reached along an itinerary that does not present particular difficulties, but with a fair difference in altitude. The view of Mont Blanc is priceless, especially at sunrise and sunset. The bivouac offers 12 beds with blankets, a toilet, gas stove for cooking, collected rainwater, electricity via solar panels.
Difficulty: E – Hiking
Recommended period: from July to September
Departure: hamlet. Villair of Morgex
Arrival: Luigi Pascal bivouac
Altitude difference: 2,000 m
One way duration: 5h
Signposts: 4
Towards Punta della Croce_trekking_Morgex
Colle (and Punta) della Croce
Climbing from Colle San Carlo or from Arpy, once you reach Lake Arpy (2,066 m) you can continue climbing towards Colle della Croce (2,380 m) and the Punta of the same name (2,480 m) which offer a spectacular glimpse of Monte Bianco. On the Punta there are still the remains of military fortifications built during the period of the Kingdom of Sardinia to defend against French troops.
Difficulty: E – Hiking
Recommended period: from June to October
Departure: Colle San Carlo
Arrival: Colle (and Punta) della Croce
Height difference: 410 m
One way duration: 1h45
Signpost: 17
Trekking_Mont Colmet_Morgex_Valle d’Aosta
Mont Colmet
Once you reach Pietra Rossa Lake, continue westwards towards the obvious peak. There is no real path, but you follow tracks, yellow signs and cairns up to a debris saddle where the Tenente Chabloz shelter is located, and from here briefly to the top.
Difficulty: EE/F
Recommended period: from July to September (possible snowfields even during the late season)
Departure: Colle San Carlo
Arrival: Mont Colmet
Difference in altitude: 1,100 m
One way duration: 3h30
Signposts: 15 to Pietra Rossa Lake, then tracks
Trekking_Mont Charvet_Morgex_Valle d’Aosta
Mont Charvet
A little-frequented itinerary that initially develops through dense woods, between the Costablinaz huts, and subsequently along meadows and on somewhat impervious terrain. Mont Charvez offers a splendid view of the north face of Becca Pouegnenta and the entire Valdigne.
Difficulty: E – Hiking
Recommended period: from June to October
Departure: Colle San Carlo
Arrival: Mont Charvet (2,489 m maximum altitude)
Difference in altitude: 1,270 m
One way duration: 4h
Signposts: 13 up to Plan Rancòn, then poor signage (presence of various cairns)
Easy walks from Morgex
If you are not that daredevil to go on those big hikes, there are really easy walks you can do. From the one to Lago d’Arpy from Colle San Carlo that is almost flat, to these ones below.
Tsantamerla – take the sentiero 5 that starts coming out of Villair de Morgex up to La Salle. You will walk next to vineyards and amazing views of the valley. You will reach to the hamlet of La Clusaz, and from there you can easily reach La Salle. Not long at all, around 40′ one way
Chatelard– this is the same sentiero 5 than Tsantamerla, but then you divert into the sentiero 5A that climbs (just a bit) and takes you to the old turret of Chatelard, an old castle with great views of the valley,
Sentiero 8 – from the main side of Morgex, this is a pathway crossing the bridge over the Dora Baltea from the camping vans parking lot, and goes on the side of the Dora Baltea all the way till the end where there is a small beach (that my dog loves!). You can keep on going up high from any of these pathways and climb as much, or as little, as you want!
Walking the vineyards from Villair towards Lavancher. The pathway across the vineyards is a lovely place where to go and walk, and you have great views from there towards the valley and the Grivola when coming down, or towards the Monte Bianco and surrounding peaks going up. Sometimes there is a barrier on the road, if there is risk of avalanches.
The old road from Morgex to Prè-Saint-Didier train station. If going with your dog, take it on a leash, as cars pass by at speed. Plus there were some viewings of wolves around too!
From Challancin to Morge. Up the collina di La Salle, if you park by Challancin you can take a very flat pathway with magnificent views of the surrounding mountains.
From Morge to the Belle Crête: You go up a bit from Morge till you see the deviation to turn to a pathway from the main road that takes you to Belle Crête- there are tables for day picnics and a giant chair on the edge with great views of the surrounding mountains.
A round walk from Planaval: Go to Planaval in the collina of La Salle, and park at the parking lot. Cross the foot bridge and take the pathway and walk all the way to the big structure at the end (a kind of barracks?)- and then you can cross the small river and come back through the other side. Beautiful walk, easy, with amazing views.
More information on Morgex: https://www.discovermorgex.it/
If you want to buy your home in Morgex, read the guide I made about it here.
Feature Image: View towards the Monte Bianco, Tête du Grand Monte, Tête des Jeunes, and Tête des Vieux from Morgex. Photo: The-Ski-Guru.
